South

Two days ago I left Berlin. I miss it a little already. Such a great city. I never did get a chance to write the homage to it that I wanted to. One day.

I took the train down south to Munich (6.5 hours) and then from there to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (1.5 hours), which is Marty's hometown. I am typing this email at Marty's parents' place, where I have stayed the last two nights.

Everyone has been tremendously generous. I have been here 48 hours and have barely managed to spend any money. And the money I did spend I really had to fight to spend. I have come up with a new strategy now though. Before I would mention in a desultory way that I was thinking about grabbing some coffee, as one is wont to do as a prelude to going to a coffee shop. But this is a tremendously dangerous thing to do in Garmisch. A few minutes later, someone will show up carrying two coffees and wave away any attempts to give them money. Their defense against repayment is simply impenetrable.

But where open assault has failed, stealth can sometimes succeed. My new strategy is to bide my time silently and quietly slip into the coffee shop when no one is looking. And at the bar, to be very watchful. I need to time it perfectly and make my move once the glasses hit about 15%. I think then I can buy the next round and show up at the perfect moment, and they would be forced to accept it as a fait accompli.

It must be a law in Garmisch that any empty glass must be replaced with a full glass within 30 seconds. And the punishment for breaking the law must be truly terrible. I have never seen people so strictly adhere to a law before.

I only have another seven hours or so in Garmisch, so I do not know how successful I shall be with my new strategy in that time. Perhaps the only thing to do is to admit defeat and accept the generosity in the spirit in which it was given.

Last night I went out with "ze Crew," Marty's band of old school friends. They often say that in their heydey in Garmisch they were "never liked, but always respected." It was a tremendously enjoyable evening.

Tonight I go to Munich with Naveen, one of ze Crew who was in Garmisch last night. I am going to stay with him for a few days and then back to the States!

As for now though, eating lunch and going hiking through the Alps sounds like a tolerably pleasant way to spend the day.